is a true story destined to end in tears. When the mechanic handed back my
Land Rover keys, having just executed about half of the work required he said
(In Spanish) “It’s the diesel injection distribution pump what’s
gone wrong but I can’t fix it here.” Here being a rusted corrugated
lean-to workshop leaning against his house, another lean-to. So I thought, well,
I can certainly fix you mate for costing me twice my current earnings. There
are boys down in deep Somerset who write manuals for motor vehicles, and as
there aren’t any manuals in Costa Rica because Costa Rican mechanics don’t
believe in them, I’ll beg my sister to post one over.
Oh, the bliss of anticipation. Retribution? I purchased a set of five metric
spanners and camped out in front of my post office box building in Guapiles.
(Guop-ill-is). On the tenth day, riding the crammed bus home I planned to become
an expert on the revival of Land Rover diesel injection distribution pumps.
With ears bleeding from the volume of Mexican pop music and eyes blurred as
we traverse the pot-holes Mr Haynes announces: “Due to the technical complexity
of Land Rover diesel injection distribution pumps we recommend sending faulty
ones to your nearest Land Rover specialist for overhaul, therefore we offer
no guidance whatsoever to the enthusiastic incompetent.” Bugger!
But I have another ace up my sleeve, I get the last laugh because I own a diesel
Land Rover that’s got something wrong with every little bit of it. This
is mechanical senility setting in, and it’s rapidly spreading. Those boys
in Silihull, you have to laugh, they built a joke Land Rover and shipped it
to Central America. But who has the manual now, and an awesome set of tools
to complement it?
This deep rural Costa Rica where most of the very very old men still remember
ox carts and Land Rovers before waking up, joining the twentieth century and
switching to Toyota’s. Having said that, most of the very very old men
around my way now drive huge futuristic Mitsubishi’s from deals struck
for exotic wood for Japan, but that’s another horror story.
Having almost given up on local mechanics I travel to the local farmers watering
hole with the intention of getting them even drunker if at all possible and
hope for secret intelligence on fixing Land Rovers. They stagger outside to
offer me the combined wisdom of about eight hundred years of Land Rover repairs
and all agree the current overheating problem is caused by a faulty water pump.
Now then, the art of mechanics lies in the preparation. Everyone should know
that. Rather like a medical procedure, I have plenty of lint free rags, (formerly
my clothes and bedding) a gallon of surgical petrol, imported de-greasing agents,
old cereal packets to fashion new gaskets, five new spanners and plenty of space
for the operation. (Costa Rica)
Following the manual to the letter the entire day disappears without trace before
I manage to yank the water pump and housing off the front of the engine. What
I find inside is truly amazing. Not only is my water pump in perfect working
order, it’s in better condition than the one featured by Haynes in their
book. I have a water pump with impeccable impeller blades all over it, so how
is it, when I shove everything back together, fire-up the old diesel motor,
it still doesn’t pump water, so the engine overheats?
This is as baffling as the new emerging physics, where the outcome of an experiment
is or isn’t influenced by whether or not any part or all of it was observed
by the experimenter. This leads me to conclude I have just examined a water
pump that works perfectly but would now prefer to pump something else instead.
Perhaps something more sophisticated than plain ordinary tap water having pumped
the stuff for so many years. Chilled Frascati might be an improvement. Heavy
water sold by the gram? Who knows, and to embrace the new emerging psychology…who
bloody well cares?
The answer to my problems may indeed be buried within the geometry of Stonehenge,
or blowing tumbleweed through a deserted Solihull car park, I’m just a
tiny bit annoyed and decide to adhere to the manual and a trip to…Thermostat
World. My new manual has little captions next to each exiting new mechanical
task, taking the form of five blank spanners going up to five inked-in spanners
to illustrate degrees of difficulty. One inked-in spanner out of five means
the job could be done by a five year old child with one spanner. Five out of
five inked-in spanners means the boys back in Solihull couldn’t do it
with a dedicated factory and an infinite number of spanners.
Thermostats are a one inked-in spanner little jobette I feel I could perform
with confidence. Perhaps a dim little point of light through a very long dark
tunnel and I simply cannot wait to get started to: Getting to know and understand
your thermostat. I will learn to discover where it lives on the engine, how
to extract my thermostat, how to inspect my thermostat for wear or possible
damage and finally how to replace my thermostat. Half a working day later I
find someone’s beaten me to it and either sold it or more likely chucked
it into a fresh water stream along with the previous battery. But who cares?
These are a people who have no word for frost. No phrases like, “Fuckin
hell it’s parky out there.” I made a new Kellogg’s gasket,
bolted everything back together and decided to live without one.
I took my Land Rover in for it’s regular Friday afternoon oil change where
my new mate Manuel invites myself and Maria to his sisters wedding and informs
me there is now diesel fuel finding itself in the oil sump. Brilliant. I tell
Manuel I’m genuinely happy his sister is to marry the son of a rich coffee
baron who will never have to live with mechanical failure and then asked him
how many inked-in spanners it will take to fix it. Manuel said maybe three or
four but added I should do it today before wasting good hard earned money on
fresh oil. I just don’t know. Those boys from Solihull, you have to laugh,
they invented the whole idea of wasting good hard earned money.
Manuel climbed wearily from his inspection pit, clearly sick of inspecting British
engineering to inform me I now sport a new leak in one of my numerous sumps
and a front leaf spring has snapped. Wearily I return to my workshop, (formerly
the house) I check my rear view mirror for a late afternoon engine-weather report.
Dense fog as usual. Great billowing clouds of noxious gasses, mostly white,
some bluish streaks, and today some very ominous dark grey. They probably monitor
me and Maria going to the shops from a satellite. It has to be the diesel pump,
so I resolve to fix it before the local primary school reports me to Greenpeace.
Mr Haynes informs us the Land Rover was first built in 1948 which I do find
remarkable, when in all probability the original design was submitted in 1848
why did they wait so long?
Out of genuine concern I glance at my oil pressure gauge. It shows a nice steady
5 P.S.I. Nothing surprising there, last week it was only 3. But it’s getting
late and today turns out to be yet another spontaneous holiday for the generator,
so the battery’s not charging and going flat.
Diesel fuel pumps are in fact a two inked-in spanner job. Well, it maybe a two
spanner job with the engine sitting on a kitchen worktop but it’s definitely
not when it’s still bolted to the chassis. And, extracting a Land Rover
engine involves an incalculable number of spanners so I resolve to get on with
it anyway. Just think of irreversible damage to our atmosphere, let alone the
multitude of gassed dead animals I leave in my wake. Endangered species? That’s
a laugh. They are now.
As anticipated there was nothing wrong with it. As far as I could tell anyway
because when I finally got it off and took it to pieces it looked nothing like
the one featured in my Haynes manual. But this is Costa Rica so my fuel pump
could have come from a Mack truck. Who knows? But you have to laugh. Don’t
you? So now I’m back to buying bottles of New Formula Magic Smoke Gone
and New Formula Miracle Diesel Cleaner. Amazing stuff. Like most American imports.
Useless.
This gets graver and graver on a daily basis. I now know how it feels to sit
and ponder the on/off switch of a life support machine, with someone I don’t
know connected to it. I also begin to consider the idea of the psychic lives
of the machines which we continue to drag from the ether into gross reality.
Everything now seems to point to my fuel distribution thing; the only component
beyond the scope of even five inked-in spanners, There’s a place in the
capital where they do that kind of think for a living, probably some obscure
sub contractor for NASA but that’s sixty miles away, with most of it uphill,
so out of reach and therefore out of the question.
This Land Rover reminds me more and more of a swamp and I’m excluding
here the fetid smell of the seats. Both operate on a fine tuned eco-system where
balance is critical to death or survival. So I have the injector overhauled,
and it breathes new life back into the motor. Now it’s ready for another
decade of happy roving. Who knows? The operation may even restore it’s
long lost oil pressure and raise it’s maximum velocity to a dizzying forty
miles per hour. But the gearbox being next in line goes immediately into a state
of shock. So it goes on, rattling back through the system until the rear tow
hitch falls off, wing mirrors cease to reflect light, and your days of Land
Roving are over and out.
Those boys from Solihull. You’ve got to laugh.
I found another mechanic yesterday. It took another oil change to get there,
but I think it was worth it. A dedicated bloke who’s probably never seen
a Haynes manual in his life. His own preference is a 1970 model which he’s
been tinkering about with over the years, so now it sports power steering and
of course servo brakes because under the bonnet lives a monstrous Toyota diesel
engine.
This isn’t silly go-faster-tom-foolery by the way, he explains, it’s
simply a matter of keeping up with modern traffic in a modern world and finally
owning a Land Rover that’s reliable. So that’s clearly the answer,
or his anyway. Toyota implants. Take out the old motor, strip it right down,
re-con everything in a professional manner, flog it to someone suitably out
of touch and buy a proper one. It makes perfect sense to me.
I guess it was only a matter of time before curiosity overtook my sense of caution,
and yes you guessed it; off came the mysterious fuel injection distribution
thingy. Out went all the reasons Mr Haynes told me to leave it alone. What a
horrible contraption. It’s about as far removed from an SU carburettor
as a Land Rover is from the concept of reliable motoring, but you have to try.
Don’t you? Only three bolts secure it to the engine after all, and they’re
not too intimidating, one is actually quite accessible once the air cleaner’s
been ejected. Such wicked temptation. So there it sits on the living room floor
in a spreading pool of its own diesel.
Of course, the vain hope along with a small prayer, is that you discover an
obvious miniscule bit that’s come loose and just a little poke with a
knitting needle is all that’s required to restore normality. Or perhaps
a tiny component has snapped, but that’s okay because there’s a
bit in Maria’s sewing machine that looks just like it, so a small sacrificial
hybridisation is performed and my Land Rover is as good as new. Is it so outrageous?
Am I unique in having a cassette machine that only plays music because of a
strategic matchstick that’s been jammed into the mechanism to induce it
to function as intended. Tricks of the trade mate. Just take off the side plate,
chuck it into a ditch, then shove a paper clip between the pump housing and
the drive shaft circlip and Bob’s your uncle. Instant turbo and it never
wears out.
All that is clear is that a diesel fuel injector distribution pump is indeed
a high-tech user-hostile piece of equipment with no user-friendly parts, which
naturally begs an obvious question: What the f**k is it doing in a Land Rover
in the first place? Mine would look far more at home in a nuclear submarine.
I understood that Land Rovers were invented for post-war farmers who could fix
anything by candlelight when the stupid thing broke down, down yonder five acre
bog. Just jam that bit open with a bit of barbed wire and whack it with a mole
wrench and still make it to The Sea Trout well before last orders. “Don’t
know why you bother to fix it, John. I took mine off ten years ago and threw
it away, been going much better ever since. Same again?”
Diesel fuel finding its way into the oil sump? That’s a laugh. Now I’ve
got diesel fuel under the fridge. But still, this is the Costa Rican jungle
after all, so diesel under the fridge has to be preferable to a family of mammoth
tropical cockroaches, so I’ll live with it.
Now the pump has drained itself everywhere and is ready for probing in my laboratory
(formerly the living room) and there’s nothing obviously wrong with it,
so it’s hard to know where to begin. So I give it a vigorous shake, and
sure enough it rattles like an old broken clock. But who’s to know they
aren’t supposed to rattle? Everything else on a Land Rover rattles anyhow.
It’s a symphony of clatter. It’s a singular feature of British design
engineering, perhaps the rattle is fine tuned by experts using specialist apparatus
back in Solihull before each Land Rover leaves the factory. I just don’t
know. Mine sounds like two marbles mixed with small change in a plastic box,
so maybe that’s perfect and there’s nothing further to worry about.
Apart from diesel fuel finding it’s way into the oil sump.
So that’s about that. The pump itself is equally as impenetrable as a
maximum security bank vault, but it does have a top bit that’s held in
place by two tiny little bolts, so I decided to take a wee peek inside. This
could so easily have been ‘it,’ finding a dead bluebottle inside
which has caused so much misery for both me and my Land Rover and in just a
few short hours the whole ghastly saga will be over and forgotten. Nothing.
Just a myriad of bits that fall out all over the floor, and even if I could
find them all, there’s no Haynes map to show me where they’re supposed
to go.
Those boys, you’ve got to laugh. All these years they have fitted tow
hitches to Land Rovers, but sticking them on the wrong damn end.
Today I paid some bloke a small fortune to tow me out of the jungle to Mr Land
Rover over in Guapiles. His latest customer was settling up and preparing to
leave in his nearly new Range Rover. Now then. I’m not a member of Mensa,
heaven forbid they would have someone like me as a member, but I’m not
entirely stupid neither, (draw your own conclusions, I did buy a Land Rover)
but it would seem to me we have writing all over wall.
Anyway, Miguel says it’s my diesel injection distribution pump what’s
wrong so it must be sent by bus to San Jose and that’s the end of it.
I said that sounded familiar and didn’t tell him if it wasn’t wrong
before then it certainly is now. There are bits of it still under my sofa. And
while we’re at it, the timing chains worn out along with the oil pump
and fuel pump. I pointed out that we’re clearly talking personal bankruptcy
here, and as he’s about to resurrect my Land Rover , could he prove there
is a God above who loves us all and make it go a teeny weeny bit faster.
Miguel disappeared under a pile of rotting junk in a corner of his workshop,
only to reappear a few minutes later with two oil sodden items. Item one was
a broad toothy grin on his oil sodden face. Item two was a bruised and battered
but fully functioning Fairey Land Rover overdrive unit which Miguel held triumphantly
aloft. I think it’s probably fair to say that I’ve never been so
happy in my entire life. But not lottery winning ticket kind of happy. More
like a sudden and unexpected contact with the divine powers that operate the
universe kind of happy. The bliss of anticipation, the long lost fifth gear.
Can you imagine it? Not one, not two, not even three, but FOUR gear levers to
clutter the cab of my Land Rover.
I rush home on the bus with the good news. Tell Maria it’s going to be
worth it after all. And yes I know, our two week old baby son now smells of
WD40 but we’re in with the chance of an overdrive unit in just a few short
weeks. Is this the eternal power of forgiveness at work? Pronoia?
Will we ever stop to admire the wonderful view, simply because it’s a
wonderful view in Costa Rica and not because the radiator’s getting ready
to explode? Stop to admire the wild flowers while we’re not waiting for
a breakdown truck to show up? Could we take a trip to the coast, and swim in
the sea without taking Miguel the mechanic with us? Take a Sunday afternoon
drive without forgetting to pack the sandwiches and a spare Land Rover? Should
I abandon my $50 a week job developing low-cost bamboo housing systems as my
contribution to saving the world?
When The National Bamboo Project of Costa Rica posted me here, to the back of
beyond, Milano bamboo research outpost, I reassured Maria who was six months
pregnant it will all be okay. I’ll buy us a trusty British Land Rover,
so when the time comes it’ll be all dieseled-up and ready for the drive
to San Jose, any time night or day. In the event she very nearly delivered our
baby boy on the trusty Isuzu bus. I just don’t know. Those boys back in
Solihull.
The road from here to Porto Limon is sixty miles of two lane black-top banana
highway and it’s lethal. There is something about bananas that’s
truly terrifying, apart from the sickly taste and a nutritional value of almost
zero. From growing the tedious things to harvesting to packing to transporting
them by the trillion by road, aboard gigantic Saturn V rocket propelled refrigerated
monsters. Inching out of our country lane onto the nightmare involves fixing
chicken wire over the headlights to prevent them being sucked from their sockets
by banana truck slipstream. We must shut the windows to maintain a realistic
air pressure. It’s horrible. It’s worse than jury service. It’s
also dangerous, and even though a Land Rover is built like a WW2 tank destined
to crawl around under its own duvet of diesel smog, it’s no match for
this manic endeavour to shift bunches of bananas around the globe. Clearly whoever
invented the Land Rover was blissfully unaware of the demented banana industry
and its efforts to transport a bunch of bananas from Costa Rica to Tesco’s
in Totnes.
I’m sure we all recall the footage of an irritable rhino savaging a Land
Rover in deepest darkest Africa. How many of us realized the incident only took
place because the stupid thing wouldn’t start? They say Joke Rovers always
travel in pairs in Africa.
Haynes publish manuals to cover the entire Land Rover range and I’ll wager
they’re all raving best sellers; almost impossible to supply an ever growing
demand. They probably make more money than, say, Land Rover. Interesting to
note, or plain business astuteness they don’t publish a manual for a Toyota
Land Cruiser because they wouldn’t sell any.
The Defender, of what? An icon of British design ineptitude?
The Discovery, of where? Yet another place to get it fixed?
The Mechanic Hunter?
Whatever.
I just phoned for a progress report so he tells me the engine is in bits and
the crankshaft is a gonner. Brilliant. Just tack on another one hundred thousand
Colona’s to the guestimate nightmare. That’s two hundred and fifty
quid at the current rate but luckily I for one have stopped counting. This is
an age old story rendered slightly more complex by language difficulties, meaning
he can’t determine just how extensive my knowledge of mechanics actually
is, so the crankshaft announcement could be a wild shot in the dark. “Just
how many inked-in spanners is this British bloke anyway? Try for two, this could
be Christmas, I could flog him the shaft that’s been under my porch for
twenty years.
I do know something about mechanics, though clearly not enough to have even
considered adopting a Land Rover. And I have the treasured Haynes manual to
fill in some of the grey areas. In section 1-4 Mr Haynes tells me you cannot
do anything with a crankshaft while the engine is still in the vehicle, and
apparently he hasn’t taken it out.
I’m compelled to use the term vehicle here for want of something more
appropriate. The Land Rover seems to find itself beyond normal classification,
as you can hardly call it a car, or a jeep or a truck or any fun to drive while
it handles like a threshing machine. So vehicle it will have to be.
What a rarity it would be to see a Land Rover with ambulance written on it,
or anything else for that matter connected to emergency services. “So
sorry we couldn’t attend your medical emergency for three and a half days
but what with diesel in the oil sump and inner tubes unable or unwilling to
hold air under pressure; you know how it is.”
At exactly thirty six miles per hour superheated oil rises vertically from the
motor with enough force to drive it through rivets on the bonnet and from thence
all over the windscreen. This event is described by all the mechanics I have
hired to remedy the disaster as a physical impossibility, as there is simply
no avenue of escape for even superheated oil. But the evidence is there to see,
dripping from my Land Rover. Having dumped so much of the stuff onto the tarmac
in the Pali supermarket car park it can no longer support the mass times the
force due to gravity of a lightly loaded shopping trolley let alone a Land Rover.
This catastrophic oil loss is simply not possible in a Cartesian world where
this is this and therefore that is that, notwithstanding the fact that my engine
is incapable of generating enough pressure to force its oil supply anywhere.
You see how I’m now forced to ponder and then verify the psychic lives
of the machines we create at the expense of my sanity because this event only
occurs whilst I’m at the helm and the bonnet is in the traditional closed
position. Change one simple condition and my oil stays where it belongs, doing
very little, wallowing in its sump. Quite clearly my Land Rover is attempting
to broadcast a message to its current owner with more than a tad of gusto. But
what could it be and what’s the urgency? “I’ve solved Zeno’s
paradox you stupid git so why do you insist using me as a form of personal transport?”
As for our Land Rover he’s had the thing for ten days now and oddly enough
I’ve been feeling much less tense, sleeping a lot better and feeling spiritually
restored. Could this be the famous self-induced diesel Land Rover stress syndrome?
The clinical unwillingness to accept one has spent and is still spending and
will forever spend every cent earned until all eternity or until one pushes
the whole sorry life episode over a dramatic high cliff.
That was yesterday and I simply couldn’t face going over there to pick
it up, let him keep the key for a few more days; it’s like carrying an
anvil around anyway. What could he be doing that’s going to cost so much?
Regardless of his efforts it’s still going to be a Land Rover that smells
of rotting upholstery because the roof fails to keep out rain, with a gear lever
that flies out of third to crack the kneecap of anyone sitting in the middle
seat. With a steering box that refuses to contain its ball bearings in its worm
drive. I just can’t imagine, so only a perverse sense of curiosity will
propel me to have a look. So I phoned him instead. He say’s he’s
fixed everything that was wrong before. I said great; before what? Leaving a
Solihull factory en route to Costa Rica? He said he’s stopped diesel fuel
getting into the oil sump which would have solved everything except for having
had diesel in the oil sump it has worn out the pistons. So when I show up on
Monday with a bag of cash only to find it still belches smoke like an eco catastrophyst
I’m going to say “You don’t seem to have done very much.”
And generally infer he’s a lousy mechanic, even though he’s probably
performed his job to perfection.
I hung up the phone, lit a few candles, opened my little bag of bleached chicken
bones and the sacred Haynes oracle. It seems I have four pistons, all made of
a light alloy and each one featuring a swirl-inducing recess in the crown. A
light alloy….hmmmm, that sounds like a key that only deepens the mystery
as to how an aluminium Land Rover with four light alloy pistons still manages
to weigh about thirty tons. Perhaps my swirl-inducing recesses (whatever they
are) are filled with some exotic metal of near infinite mass which would explain
why I have to rally an entire neighbourhood to help bump-start the stupid thing
when it refuses to start.
Maybe it just requires a new set of piston rings, it hardly mattes anymore,
either task is the same number of inked-in spanners and the same number of man
hours, but here’s the tragic reality. “If new pistons or their rings
have been fitted your engine should be considered as new and therefore it should
be run-in at a reduced speed for the first half million miles.” Brilliant,
that means another ten years of Roving before I can stoke it back up to a maximum
velocity of thirty seven miles per hour. Laugh? I must pay a fortune for the
privilege of travelling even slower than before.
Sunday, (formerly a day off) I sit on the porch looking at ripening avocado’s
in the tree. We also have palms, a lemon tree, a banana…thing, Hibiscus
bushes and therefore lots of humming birds and at the centre of it all, a pitiful
arctic white diesel Land Rover. I prefer to watch a sloth making its way along
an electricity cable that runs along our country lane out front but as usual
my Land Rover demands attention. The front bumper is out of line, rising a good
inch on the right hand side. A bumper clearly inspired by any of the larger
structural elements of the Forth rail bridge I know instinctively this angle
must be caused by something expensive. Sure enough, driving along our rough
lanes with a steel universal beam bolted to the front has split the chassis
all the way from bottom to top. I’m only four or five bumps from complete
shear. There’s a bloke not far from here with a portable mig welder who
would simply hook his wires onto the overhead cables, use a jack and the weight
of the bumper to close the gap and weld it shut but I’m worried about
incinerating the sloth before it gets where it’s going. That is not it,
that is not pronoia.
I remember Agartha. I remember Cutting The Ties That Bind Us. I remember Reinforcing
Floors To Carry Spiritual Loading. I remember my little Toyota Tercel, a name
so reminiscent of a drain cleaning fluid, in the space of three years all it
suffered was one puncture. The time has come, once again, to reclaim my life
from those jovial boys back in Solihull, but how do I dispose of the ugliest
object ever devised by the mind of man without falling foul of Friends of the
Earth?
They don’t have scrap yards in Costa Rica, having elected to remain a
nation that will never suffocate under its own rubbish mountain and I’m
certain my Rover could not struggle all the way to Nicaragua next door. The
next day I received my letter along with two hundred others to informed us all
that the foundation would sink without trace without this months wages, without
compensation, without nada, so I sold the Useless Rover for small change, packed-up
my trusty DeWalt radial arm saw and we flew south to Ecuador.
Quito International Airport is aptly named because it’s still in Quito.
We lived in an apartment which overlooked it, along with a few million others
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